Few other common questions we get;
Yes it will go over vinyl wrapped cars. BUT, depending on the quality of the wrap used you may well get reactions. We would recommend you remove the vinyl wrap first.
Yes it will go over rust. We recommend you treat the rust first (it will still continue to rust behind the dip, dip will not stop it rusting, just cos you can’t see it!) Minimum will need sanding smooth or will look ugly.
Yes it will go over primered surfaces. We recommend sanded to 600 grit minimum. It will really stick to primer and is harder to peel from. Also we recommend leaving six weeks before you dip over fresh primer or you may get reactions. ALL dips will react to the cheap primer aerosols you buy, so if going to primer repairs, use a decent primer.
No, we do NOT recommend you go over fresh painted surfaces. We say leave at least 6 weeks before you dip a painted surface or you may get reactions. If you have had a smart repair on a bumper scuff, generally it will damage the paint once removed if done less than 3 months prior to dipping. Usually the lacquer will come away. This is not the dips fault, it will be the repair underneath not done / dried / cured properly prior to dipping. Proper car paint lacquer takes 6 weeks to cure fully.
Yes, you can go over a panel that the lacquer / paint is peeling from. BUT, when you remove it, it will remove all the rest of the lacquer / paint from the panel. We also recommend you sand it smooth or you will see the pattern of the flaked off bits.
My car is already red and I want to go red, can I use less? NO, don’t be cheap. In reality, you can use less, and it will be red. BUT it will not be very strong or durable and look terrible in no time. So get the same amount as if car wasn’t red to start. Treat as going from white – red. This is same for other colours, not just red. eg black to black, white to white etc.
Do I have to mask anything? Yes, we recommend you mask everything. DO NOT forget to cover any radiators, inter-coolers etc. As if you cover in dip, next traffic jam, ‘boom’ overheat.
But I have seen on the internet they don’t? No, you do not HAVE to, but everything you do not mask, you peel and throw away. What a waste of material and £££!
I seen you take the handles and mirrors off to dip, do I have to? Yes we do, it makes for a better job, less chance of runs and tougher finish. The weak spot on any dip job is the edges. If the edges are not visible and hidden behind a trim / mirror you removed prior to dipping it, then it will be stronger as there is no edge to catch when cleaning.
What gun shall I use? The FullDip FD650, both the Earlex guns we use and supply and a traditional compressor and gun setup are perfectly fine. The Full Dip FD650 is for the casual user or one time user and is very cost friendly. The Earlex MS3000 is for a home / casual user as well as the pro. The HV6003 is the next step for the small business heavy user. The compressor setup is more for a pro / heavy user. Compressor wise, we recommend a 3hp, minimum 14 cfm output compressor. We also recommend you get a 200 litre minimum receiver tank. As for guns, the better the gun, the better the finish. But for budget users we get perfectly good results with a DevilBiss SLG / FLG. Next up is the 3M gun we use here often, right up to a full on professional TSS ProHSE! Guns are a completely different topic and won’t be covered here. Rule of thumb here is same as anything, the more you spend the better the finish (within reason, as some products are more expensive but you will get no better finish – making them a waste of money). If in doubt email in.